Why a $450 Watch Became $1,000 Used
Before starting this Seiko Alpinist SARB017 briefing, let me ask one question. What’s the reason a watch that originally sold for $450 shot up to $1,000~$1,500 after discontinuation? Is it simply due to scarcity, or is there something more?
The Seiko Alpinist SARB017, produced from 2006 to 2019, has a certain nickname among watch enthusiasts. Called “the poor man’s Explorer,” this watch started as a reasonable alternative to the Rolex Explorer but has become a cult classic in its own right.
“Green Dial” – Basically a Cheat Code
The safest choice in the watch industry is black or white dial. But why did “Seiko” of all brands choose green? Why green specifically?
The SARB017’s green sunburst dial changes from deep forest green to bright emerald depending on the angle of light.
So AI tells me..
Shigeo Sakai, who designed the Alpinist in 1995, created the green dial thinking it would pair well with brown crocodile straps.
Originally, when you think of green, the first thing that comes to mind is obviously “Rolex,” so green dials from Seiko are not just uncommon – they’re practically nonexistent. Even within Seiko, green dial watches supposedly don’t sell well. But this “Alpinist” is the exception.. (Yasuhiro Kuzuya, who designed the SARB, said this directly)
Perfect Price for “Entry-Level”
Of course, this was when talking about pre-discontinuation prices. In watch communities, the SARB017 was called “entry-level.” This meant many beginners entered the world of serious mechanical watch, automatic watch collecting through this timepiece. You could easily find posts on Reddit’s r/Watches or WatchUSeek forums picking SARB017 as their “first watch.”
The reason for this phenomenon is clear. With a reasonable 39.5mm size, sapphire crystal, 200m water resistance, and even a 6R15 movement, all while maintaining a reasonable price. It gave beginners “this spec at this price?” amazement and led them deeper into watch obsession.
Discontinued? PRICE SPIKE
News of SARB017’s discontinuation came in 2018. Seiko officially provided only the vague explanation that “business must adapt and change with the times.” But the real reason was more practical.
The main reason was product line streamlining. Seiko tried to consolidate product lines under the Prospex brand (this was the worst move.. remove that X mark), and the SARB series became a casualty in this process. Also, rising production costs of the 6R15 movement made it difficult to maintain the existing price point.
Ironically, discontinuation made the SARB017 even more special. The original $450 price now starts at $1,000 on Chrono24, and depending on the watch’s condition or whether it’s direct import vs parallel import, it can shoot up to $1,500.
The X Mark Makes Its Entrance…
The official successor to SARB017 is the SPB121 released in 2020. While it has improvements like a longer power reserve (70 hours) with the 6R35 movement and exhibition caseback, many Seiko collectors felt dizzy.
Two major complaints arose from SPB121’s main changes. First, the addition of the cyclops magnifier ruins the clean dial design of the original SARB017. Second, the addition of Prospex branding (yes.. that X-shaped X mark) eliminated the existing minimal charm.
Price-wise, the SPB121 costs about 800,000-900,000 won, more than double the original SARB017. This shows Seiko’s strategic positioning change, but at the same time, the value proposition that pre-Prospex models like SARB017 offered is no longer possible. (It was bought for the cheap thrill, but at this price, forget it)
The Power of JDM (Japan Domestic Market) Branding
This scarcity worked as an even stronger appeal to overseas collectors. In the late 2000s, before internet direct purchasing became as active as today, the process of acquiring an Alpinist was quite difficult for foreign watch fans. Posts asking “where can I get one” flooded Reddit and various communities, and enthusiasts from that era know the experience of contacting Japanese online retailers to chase limited stock.
The Value of Storytelling
Many owners have their own SARB017 stories. “First real watch,” “watch gifted by father,” “souvenir from Japan trip” – personal meanings are engraved into the watch. These emotional connections only grow stronger over time.
Among collectors, there’s a joke that “you sell your SARB017 only to buy it again.” This proves that this watch isn’t just a time-measuring tool, but has unique heritage and serves as an emotional anchor.
Technology vs. Emotion
Spec Analysis
Objectively speaking, SARB017’s specs aren’t particularly special. The 6R15 movement has a daily accuracy of +25/-15 seconds, which isn’t Swiss chronometer grade. The 39.5mm case is somewhat small by modern standards, and the 12mm thickness is on the thick side.
But all these elements achieve an exquisite balance. The moderate size fits most wrists well, and sapphire crystal with 200m water resistance was groundbreaking specs for this price range at the time. Most importantly, its versatile styling works with both formal and casual wear – while released as a field watch, it’s perfectly suitable as a dress watch.
Imperfect Perfection
The only disappointing aspect of SARB017 is the stock strap. Most users immediately replace it with another strap after purchase, the so-called “strap game.” But this flaw contributed to the Alpinist’s popularity. The leather strap that even local markets wouldn’t sell led users to express their watch personality through strap changes. (I have 1 jubilee, 2 NATOs, and 1 leather, but the green NATO seems prettiest)
This was because the watch’s essential dial and case design served as a versatile canvas for various straps. It’s a case showing how a product’s ‘flaw’ can sometimes unintentionally foster community and creativity, drawing out stronger personality for the product.
But Getting This Now?
The current average used price of SARB017 is 800,000-1,200,000 won. Is this price reasonable? From an investment perspective, it’s a watch that has risen over 60% in the past 5 years. But with significant premium already formed, additional upside potential may be limited.
More important is actual usage value. For 800,000 won used, you can also buy a Hamilton Khaki Field or the new Alpinist SPB121. Whether SARB017 is worth paying 2-3 times more compared to these is an individual judgment.
Comparison with Alternatives
There are alternatives like the Hamilton Khaki Field, but they can’t completely replace SARB017’s unique green dial, compass function, and Japanese aesthetics. Also, these watches lack the story that SARB017 has. Actually, for entry-level or watches you can just throw on and go out anytime, nothing beats the Khaki Field..
Ultimately, the reason to buy SARB017 isn’t in the specs but in the story. The Alpinist history dating back to 1959, the specialness of Japan’s domestic market, uncommon design for Seiko, and scarcity from discontinuation. All these elements form one narrative.
What Makes a Really Good Watch?
“Value” Beyond Specs
Finishing this Seiko Alpinist SARB017 review, I think that truly good watches come not from specs but from the meaning people assign to them. SARB017 isn’t technically perfect. But if you want technically perfect watches, isn’t there the Apple Watch? Whether automatic or quartz, I think watches are expensive because they occupy a special place in the wearer’s story or memories. (Of course, it’s also true that an enormous number of parts go into this small watch)
The reason this watch is still talked about more than 5 years after discontinuation is that it became not just a simple time-measuring tool but a cultural phenomenon. An existence that serves as the starting point for deep understanding of what watches are and a lifelong hobby.
If you’re an automatic watch beginner, you don’t need to pay $1,000 for a SARB017. There are many reasonable alternatives like the new SPB121. But if you already have some understanding of watches and empathize with the story and historical significance that SARB017 carries, it may be worth paying that price.
Ultimately, watch selection goes beyond rational calculation into the realm of “emotion.” SARB017 is certainly one of the watches that best stimulates that emotion.